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When assembling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. But, situated prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

A Shocking Honour

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This accolade has made the owners totally surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks the family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small shop achieving such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.